10.30.08
Posted in Current Events, Spero Cras at 6:25 pm by Kaihaku
A prominent politician calls for military spending to be reduced and now someone has finally had the guts to put Dr. James Dobson in his place. When I was a child, I respected Focus on the Family and Dr. Dobson. I was raised on them. When they said that Clinton would bring about the end of life as we knew it, I believed them. I cried when Clinton defeated Bush Senior. The world, however, did not end. It continued and I continued. I learned more about the world and I am now ashamed of the fearful and hateful rhetoric preached in the name of the Prince of Peace.
Recently, Focus on the Family released a letter predicting what the United States will look like in 2012 after four years of an Obama presidency. It reads like a chapter out of a Left Behind book. Jim Wallis, a founder of Sojourners and author of God’s Politics, presented a forceful but polite response to the letter. If this is way America is changing, fear and hate dispelled with measured uncompromising rationality, then sign me up.
On a related note that caused me to learn of all of this, here is an interesting blog post on the need for honest humanizing dialogue which reminds us that our faith is not on the ballot come next Tuesday.
Permalink
Posted in Life and the happenings there of, Spero Cras at 2:25 am by Kaihaku
Last July, I had the good fortune of being able to witness the presentations of the many of this year’s Applied Conflict Transformation Studies graduates. This presentation was the final step in a two year course for eleven participants from around the region. The presentation took place at the Center for Peace and Conflict Studies in Phnom Penh and just down from the Sam Rainsy Party’s headquarters. I felt more than a little out of place as a Computer Scientist working in Agriculture attending a presentation for professional intellectual peacemakers. Though I grew more comfortable as the presentations proceeded, they were using heady and complicated termiology for what struck me as fairly common-sensical approaches to conflict transformation.
“If you feel faint, please faint quietly so you don’t interrupt the speaker.”
Interfaith Peacebuilding
Thursday, July 17th 2008
Seang Samnang, Cambodia
The first presenter was Seang Samnang from Cambodia, the focus of his study was “understanding interfaith issues as a way to strengthen peaceful coexistence and cooperation in Cambodia.” He claimed that Cambodia is an ethnically and religiously diverse nation. It was a matter of perspective David Ketchum later mused to me, Cambodia is statistically the most homogeneous country in Asia but for a native learning of the diversity in the country for the first time it’s existence would be shocking. Mr. Seang continued to expand that conflict is often caused by ignorance and misunderstandings; both limited understanding of one’s own religion as well as lack of effort to understand the religions of others cause conflict. Mr. Seang found interfaith to be a very interesting and compelling area from which to promote peacework.
He went on to describe his action research methodology which I scribbled down with keen interest…which I later looked back on with annoyance as the majority of the participants outlined nearly identical methodology. As it was explained to me there are few broad sources of conflict transformation methodology, primarily the work of John Paul Lederach. New methodology has largely been constrained to context specific studies instead of focusing developing new peace building methods. One of the observers expressed some frustration that they had not been able to inspire the participants to delve into new areas because Lederach’s models were good but not perfect and did not apply to every situation.
- Bringing About Change
- Progression of Conflict by Adam Curle
- Approaches to Peacebuilding by Lederach
- Triangle Framework for Interfaith
- Initiative on Peace in Cambodia by Ngarm
- Action Research and Reflection
Mr. Seang approached interfaith peacebuilding on three levels; me, us (the other ACTS participants), and them (the community). He was asked how he personally changed and responded that now he has read many of the Buddhist scriptures giving him more understanding of his faith. He is now more aware and has more ideas leaving him better prepared for dialogue. He also came to understand other religions more such as when he served pork during a meal and learned that Muslims do not eat pork. He added that most religious beliefs promote peace and cooperation.
Unlike most other countries, Mr. Seang continued, Cambodia is not deeply religiously divided. The specific context in each community influences the severity but in every situation interfaith issues are sensitive. A problem was that the peacebuilding team Mr. Seang lead was Buddhist and young, because of this they had limited experience and perspective.
His key findings were that…
- Raising unvoiced latent issues prevents conflict.
- Interfaith understanding is developed dynamically.
- Third party involvement is important, key even.
- Discussing interfaith issues within one faith group is effective.
- However, different faith groups need to be brought together for ultimate success.
- It is very important to conduct pre-meeting trainings.
- The participants in the process need to be willing to commit.
- The process requires long term support.
- The process needs to connect across several social groups such as farmers, monks, laymen, officials, etc.
- Reflection for all involved is very important.
- Understanding comes from engagement, not just research.
- It is a complicated process.
- It is important to provide safety for all involved.
- Religious tension in Cambodia is often subtle but it exists.
Mr. Seang concluded that important next steps would include intrafaith and interfaith family conflict.
Question: What about deeper interfaith conflicts? An example would be ‘honor killings’?
Answer: This is not related to so deeply divided and open conflicts but is directed more towards latent tensions that are already there. It is not as challenging in Cambodia as in areas with more diverse and deeper conflicts.
Faith Based Principles
Thursday, July 17th 2008
Som Chanmony, Cambodia
Som Chanmony works with Peacebridges, a partner of MCC which I’ve mentioned before. He began by explaining that the local context is important to understanding the situation. Cambodia suffered from fifty years of war and unrest, it is now developing but violence persists. There may have been no major faith conflicts but the tension is there. The goal of his research was to show that faith based principles help resolve conflict. Being a Christian in Cambodia, Mony focused entirely on Christian examples of faith based principles such as the Sermon on the Mount.
Mony also built his project around a me (Mony and others who follow faith based principles), us (co-workers), them (how to solve external conflict) model. He paraphrased Lederach, “conflict is a matter of change. Don’t just get rid of the conflict but get change from it, conflict is a window to hidden elements/the big picture.”
- Conflict Resolution: Mediation and Facilitation Training by Mennonite Central Committee
- Conflict Resolution in Cambodia: Between a Tiger and a Crocodile
- Building Peace by Lederach
- Integrated Framework for Peacebuilding
- Cambodian Approaches to Conflict Resolution by Kao and Samnang
From his experience, Mony shared that it is important in resolving conflicts to have a neutral mediator who must be voluntary take on that role. Then there are two styles of mediation that Mony witnessed in the villages; authoritarian (judge) and paternalistic (guide by proposals). He said that different levels of conflicts had to be approached in different ways. In family conflict an older sibling, aunt, or grandparent should intervene. In conflicts with a neighbor it should be the village leader or another community authority. In legal conflicts it should left to the court.
In these processes faith based principles are important, Mony explained. Discipline and violence are often confused but they are not the same. Peacebuilders need to do the following…
- Have the right attitude (non-violent and non-judgmental)
- To address conflict directly
- Listen with the goal of reaching understanding not placing blame
- Seek transformation and repentance (change situation, reach root causes)
- Promote forgiveness (this is key to reconciliation)
Mony concluded that the focus on living promoted in faith based principles can improve one’s personal life. Following such principles do not only help to resolve conflicts but they serve as a personal model. They promote trust and confidence, integrity is key. All of this contributes to conflict prevention and resolution. He acknowledged some limitations in that faith based principles are subjective and there is a lack of a way to clarify their meaning. Faith based principles also need to be explored and contextualized.
He identified several areas of future research. The development of clear faith based principles, written out clear point by point explanations of those principles. Peacebridges, a christian organization, needs to develop faith based principle training methods for other faiths.
I think his presentation could have been summed up as “practicing what you preach makes you more effective at peace building.”
Question: Does a faith based principle approach really work in interfaith situations? What happens in tense diverse situations?
Answer: There are similar values found in most faiths. Serving as a model, showing integrity, starting with one’s self is the most important step and should be the first. Self first, own beliefs first, that comes before anything else.
Community Stakeholders
Thursday, July 17th 2008
Charmaine Dagapioso-Baconga, Philippines
Mindanao is the second largest island in the Philippines and has been engulfed in conflict for thirty years, for the last twelve years Charmaine has worked as a community organizer hoping to promote a grassroots peace process. Mindanao is comprised primarily of three groups; approximately four million are Moro (Muslims), two million are indigenous people, and two million are settlers. The ethnicity of the Moro was, originally, the same as the indigenous people. The conflict however is not based in religion but land tenor and land reform. Landlords, corporations, and other groups occupy large tracks of land. There is a lack of security and rule of law. There are many armed groups occupying the island.
In 1992, the government initiated a peace process to end the conflict and bring about peace. There are two major powers involved in the dialogue.
Government of the Republic Philippines (GRP): Through Proclamation No. 10-A signed on July 28, 1992 the government established the Principles of Engaging in the Peace Process based on National Unification Commission.
Revolutionary Workers Party in Mindanao (RPM): Believes that empowered sustainable communities are the foundation of lasting peace and believe that protracted war destroys the “revolutionary” spirit.
In 2003, the peace process was redesigned with a dual framework in mind; formal talks among the principal powers working for political settlements and peace consultation on the grassroots level with the aim of producing empowered, sustainable, and peaceful communities. The ruling government has changed several times and this has threatened to derail the peace process. The commitment of the RPM and the local community to the peace process has been key to keeping it alive. Charmaine admitted that every election is a challenge. The RPM has remained committed to holding the current government to the past government’s promises. Eighty-nine villages have had “peace consultation” focusing on solving land conflicts, promoting dialogue, and talking out issues before documents are signed. Charmaine works with an NGO that works with “peace consultation” and focuses on ethical development and peace.
The purpose of Charmaine’s research was to show that local participation in the peace process through “peace consultations” drastically improves the entire process. Another goal was to evaluate how to include the results of local community involvement in the upper level negotiations.
Her methodology was quite a bit more focused than most of the other presenters and she seemed to have done a lot more of her own “mental footwork”.
- Third party is essential (Putnam)
- Social capital theory (Trust, relationships, reciprocity)
- Expanded Framework for Peacebuilding
Her activities…
Permalink
10.29.08
Posted in Current Events, Rants, Spero Cras at 2:38 am by Kaihaku
Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired signifies, in the final sense, a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and are not clothed. This world in arms is not spending money alone. It is spending the sweat of its laborers, the genius of its scientists, the hopes of its children . . . Under the cloud of threatening war, it is humanity hanging from a cross of iron.
-Dwight D Eisenhower
The United States of America accounts for forty-eight percent of the documented annual military spending in the world. This year that amounts to $711,000,000,000 dollars officially and an untold amount unofficially. It’s nearest competitor is the European Union whose combined nations spent $289,000,000,000 dollars. Unless the United States is considering war with the whole of Europe the nearest ‘threat’ is China in third with a budget of $121,000,000,000 dollars. Russia devoted $50,000,000,000 dollars to its military this year. The new Iraq has a military budget of $17,900,000,000 dollars. Iran and North Korea have military budgets hovering below $10,000,000,000.
Just for comparison, Kofi Annan claimed that the best estimates indicated that an additional $40,000,000,000 dollars a year could achieve and maintain universal access to basic education for all, basic health care for all, reproductive health care for all women, adequate food for all and clean water and safe sewers for all. That’s less than five percent of the United States’ annual military budget.
Don’t forget what I discovered; that over ninety percent of all national deficits from 1921 to 1939 were caused by payments for past, present, and future wars.
Franklin D. Roosevelt
Earlier today I learned something I found remarkable from the Quakers; a prominent politician in Washington has openly broached the topic of reducing the military budget by twenty-five percent. I know next to nothing about Congressman Barney Frank and from what I have learned of him I’m not necessarily a fan but I am encouraged to hear that this “radical” thought is gaining some momentum. Decreasing the United States Military Budget is a rational and responsible action. Unless the United States is planning on taking on the entire world and/or is committed to continually promoting the interests of the military industrial complex there is no reason for our nation to account for nearly half of the world’s annual expenditures on warfare. This goes far beyond defense. This goes beyond offense. I believe there is an illness afflicting the world today, one of over-consumption and consumerism where economic benefit has usurped religious, ethic, or even humane motivations. But like a virus this disease continues to pretend, at least on the surface, to still be what it usurped. That is the only rationale that I can convince of for the bloated mass of expenditures that is the United States annual military budget which has left our nation deep in debt to foreign powers. It has fallen to consumerism; the point of its existence has become to continue to consume. To continue fighting. Why? Who are we fighting against? What is the purpose? There are some ideological rationalizations about freedom and liberty but where are the results and where is the evidence? If all of the major shortages facing the world can be filled with $40,000,000,000 dollars annually why hasn’t $711,000,000,000 dollars had a positive result? I believe because it is intended to promote business interests not the values that it’s proponents espout and not it’s original purpose.
In the councils of government, we must guard against the
acquisition of unwarranted influence, whether sought or unsought,
by the military-industrial complex. The potential for the disastrous
rise of misplaced power exists and will persist.
Dwight D. Eisenhower
I don’t believe that conservative and liberal ideologies are the principle point of conflict that they are made out to be. Neither ideology is absolute, neither is “evil” and both are needed to balance out a healthy society. Corruption, Extremism, and Reactionarism are not and have never been healthy in any society. Normally rational people have fallen into semi-religious zeal over this issue and I wonder what would happen if they paused to think about it and gain some perspective. We need to control our fear not let it control us. Fear is being used to manipulate and control, democracy depends on rational minds thinking for themselves.
The only sure bulwark of continuing liberty is a government strong enough to protect the interests of the people, and a people strong enough and well enough informed to maintain its sovereign control over the government.
Franklin D. Roosevelt
Permalink
10.19.08
Posted in Classic Posts, Life and the happenings there of at 4:47 pm by Kaihaku
Oh my, reading this makes me feel so naive… I really had so little idea of what I was getting into.
I choose to be a Mennonite several years ago because of all the denominations I encountered, they were the ones who seemed closest to following my reading of the gospels and were the least hypocritical. Mennonite Central Committee represents the primary service arm of modern Mennonite church and includes such programs as Ten Thousand Villages. A distinction should be made at this point between conservative Mennonites who resemble more liberal Amish and modern Mennonites who generally have the same approach to technology as a normal denomination.
The Kingdom of Cambodia is a small nation located on the Indochina peninsula. It is bordered by Thailand and Laos on the west and north and by Viet Nam on the east and south. The gulf of Thailand is off the southwestern coast. The country is approximately the size of Missouri and has a population of roughly thirteen million. About eighty percent of this population lives in rural villages. The capital and largest city is Phnom Penh which has a population of roughly one million people. Prey Veng City is approximately a hour south of Phnom Penh. It is situated on the edge of a large lake and a large portion of the city is filled with colonial architecture.
This is an extremely brief summary of the history of Cambodia. Several key events will be neglected or only touched on lightly. A more detailed history can be found at Wikipedia. Cambodia was a colony of France for ninety years. From 1953 to 1970, it was ruled by Norodom Sihanouk first as King and then as President. In 1970, Shianouk was toppled by a coup led by US supposed General Lon Nol. This coupled with an bombing effort to suppress Vietnamese supply lines through Cambodia created peasant support for Cambodia’s own communist insurgency, the Khmer Rogue. Under the cruel leadership of Pol Pot, the Khmer Rogue emptied the cities of Cambodia and the entire country was transformed into one massive peasant collective. In the three and a half years of Khmer Rogue rule, 1.5 million people died from starvation, mass executions and disease. During my first visit to Viet Nam, I visited a mass execution site from the Khmer Rogue invasion. I can only imagine how much more prevalent and terrible such sites are in Cambodia itself. In 1979, the Khmer Rogue was defeated by a small Khmer exile army heavily backed by the Vietnamese. The People’s Republic of Kampuchea was established upon the defeat of the Khmer Rogue and in 1989 the country was changed to the State of Cambodia. Throughout most of the 1980s, Cambodia was isolated from the Western world suffering from the same embargoes as Viet Nam. The Khmer Rogue continued to find against the new government in a guerilla war allied with two smaller non-communist factions. In the early nineties, the United Nations intervened and through negotiations brought about a free election. It was estimated that 90% of all Cambodians voted and the results were surprising, with the ruling party being defeated and a constitutional monarchy being put in place. The Khmer Rogue continued to fight against any other regime. The war escalated throughout the 1990s until 1999 when Pol Pot died in captivity and the few remaining Khmer Rogue were scattered or imprisoned. International negotiations disarmed another coup attempt and brought about another set of elections, which have resulted in the current stable government.
The majority of Cambodians are multi-lingual, speaking a combination of Chinese, English, and Khmer (The native Cambodian Language). I will be learning Khmer as part of my position and possibly Chinese. Cambodia is approximately 96% Buddhist, 3% Muslim, and 1% Christian. Officially, Cambodians adhere to Theravada Buddhism but in pratice it is more of a blend of animism, Hinduism, and Brahmanism. The Cham (Muslim) minority in Cambodia has been a quiet one, uncharacteristically for the religion. Unlike more conservative Muslim communities in other countries, Cham women are required only to wear simple scarves over their hair. Not so different from conservative mennonites. The christian church, though small, is a vibrant one which is growing rapidly. Currently, there are an estimated 1000 churches in the country and a total of 60,000 believers. Churches are growing faster than the number of trained leaders can support. Programs are working to train new Church leaders but more work is needed to be done in this area. In 1998, a Khmer language version of the Bible was released. The number of resources available to Christians is beginning to flourish but materials are still limited as compared to other states.
Cambodia has a tropical monsoon climate with three seasons. The cool season (November-Feburary), the hot season (March-May), and the rainy season (June-October). There are often severe droughts in the hot season and serious flooding during the rainy season.
MCC began work in Cambodia in 1979. Until 1992, MCC efforts were concentration on relief and rehabilitation work. Since then, MCC has been able to focus more of its efforts on traditional community development work. The bloody wars and famines of the 70s and 80s still present a heavy impact on Cambodian society. Helping with the continuing development of the local infrastructure is of key importance. As always with MCC development programs, the goal is to give them the resources and aid to help themselves. As the proverb goes, “Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach him to fish and feed him for a lifetime.” My official position in the program will be Rural Agriculture Advisor. I’ll be stationed in Prey Veng province as part of a team of three individuals. I will be helping with the development of local agencies and programs, providing various skills possibly including grant writing, organizational advisement, etc. Originally the position was designed for someone with more agricultural experience but it is fluid and will be altered to my skills and training. Of course, with that said, I will no doubt learn more about rice farming than I ever thought I would during this term of service. There has been mention of aiding local agencies with web design and technical support, however nothing can be certain until I’m actually on the field.
My term of service will begin on October seventeenth, 2006 and continue until October sixteenth, 2009. I will be undertaking orientation at MCC headquarters in Akron Pennsylvania from October sixteenth until I depart for Cambodia on November first. I am extremely fortunate in that I will be undertaking training with another member of the team I will be serving with in Cambodia and that among those undergoing training are a couple who served for three years previously in Cambodia. Though they are now preparing for a term of service in Kentucky, they will be on hand to answer any questions I have about Cambodia. I will be undergoing three months of language training once I arrive in Cambodia. In all likelihood, this will take place in the capital of Phnom Penh where I will live in the home of a local family. After this, I will travel to Prey Veng and begin to serve in my position. I do not know the extent of my internet access at this time. I have been told that it costs five cents a minute to place international phone calls to the United States, so I should be able to call home fairly easily.
Permalink
Posted in Classic Posts, Life and the happenings there of at 4:42 pm by Kaihaku
I was way too attached to my computer back then, not that I can blame myself but still… I’m still quite thankful and fond of Melian but I’m glad that she broke earlier on in my term. It was difficult but in the end it worked out for the best.
Melian has been making a strange humming sound when I tilt her… Causes me some concern. Hopefully, its nothing but I don’t have the time to have an Apple Store check her out. Regardless, I fear I’m going to have to be a good deal more gentle with her now that she’s getting older. Almost three years old now, if she’s going to make it to seven as I intend I suppose its time I started making her more of a desktop than laptop.
Permalink
Posted in Classic Posts, Life and the happenings there of at 4:39 pm by Kaihaku
I recently recovered the database from my first blog. It’s a bit mangled thanks to the meddling of iPowerWeb but I’ve managed to salvage a few posts. I’ll be posting them here.
I’ve finished the final stage in my application process and been accepted into Mennonite Central Committee. I’ll be doing development work for three years through them in Cambodia. I don’t know most of the details of the position yet however I suspect that my internet activity will take a major plunge. I’ll be part of a four person team filling various positions such as Income Generation Advisor, Rural and University Agriculture Advisors, and Rural Peace Advisor. I’m not certain at this time which position I’ll be filling. In many ways this is a good placement for my first service position as I’m familiar with the region due to my time in Viet Nam, I enjoy the culture and food, being part of a team is good for learning the language and neutral dialogue, and since its a new position I don’t have to attempt to fill someone else’s shoes. Granted, the climate is not my favorite but I can cope with that. I certainly did for the first twelve years of my life in North Carolina. My largest concern is actually for my precious computer. Hopefully Melian will weather the humidity well. In October I’ll be in training for two weeks, then if all of paperwork goes through smoothly I’ll be leaving shortly there after. After several months of slow progression, this swift movement was much faster than I had anticipated so I’m just alittle overwhelmed, but I feel like its for the best.
How different everything was from what I envisioned.
Permalink
10.17.08
Posted in Ponderings and Incomplete Thoughts at 4:37 pm by Kaihaku
“In Haiti we have a joke,” Djakoli told me while I was in the country as part of an MCC-organized learning tour.
The story goes like this: a woman is sitting on the side of the road, selling vegetables. A slick new shiny car pulls up, driven by a Haitian. A white man gets out, who also looks slick in his new suit and tie.
The man asks the woman, “If I tell you exactly how many onions are in each box that you are selling, will you give me one box for free?” The woman is intrigued and agrees. The man then pulls out his computer. The screen shows a satellite image of the woman and her vegetables. Then it zeroes in on one box and computes a calculation. A few minutes later the man looks at the woman and says, “There are exactly 250 onions in each box.”
The woman is thoroughly surprised. “That’s exactly right!”
So she gives the man a free box, then she looks at him and offers a counter bet, “If I tell you who you are, you will give me back the box and pay me the cost of one box.”
The man, who is also intrigued and with little to lose, agrees. The woman exclaims, “You are an International Expert!”
“That’s exactly right! How did you know?”
“There are three things that gave it away. First, you came to me; I did not invite you here. Second, you told me something that I already knew. Third, these are not onions, they are turnips.”
This is an excerpt from a full article by MCC Washington’s Theo Sitther who I met a year and a half ago just before the MCC regional retreat at Ha Long bay. I don’t really have very much to say beyond that, I’ve been meaning to share the joke and just got around to it.
Permalink
10.16.08
Posted in Life and the happenings there of at 3:55 pm by Kaihaku
Two years ago yesterday Carol and I began orientation in Akron. So while we did not arrive in Cambodia until November 2nd, yesterday marked us entering our final year in Cambodia. How time flies!
Permalink
10.15.08
Posted in Life and the happenings there of at 10:05 pm by Kaihaku
Yesterday, the Wiederkehrs, the Yordys, Hon Dara, and myself chartered a boat to visit the Angkearhdei Primary School. This time of year it is quite difficult to visit the school by land and regardless of the time of year getting eight people there would be difficult. The day before I had attempted to convince the Vietnamese boatman that the SALTers, Carol, and I went with to give us a better price. Last time, because of some police interference, we had ended up paying an outrageous fifty dollars. Instead of offering a better price, they insisted that the we pay sixty-five dollars for the trip now because the price of gas had gone up. Actually, in the last month the price of gas has gone down and… Well, I could rant on about all the ways they were trying to take advantage of us, or me, but that’s not the point. That evening Hon Dara went looking for another option and found some Cambodians with a boat who were willing to take us for thirty-five dollars. The price still seemed a little high, maybe five dollars or so, but I don’t mind being overcharged by poor people… That is, I don’t mind until it reaches 150% to 200% of what the price should be.
So, we arrived at the boat yesterday morning and the boatpeople took one look at us and said, “Oh…you brought foreigners… They won’t feel safe in a boat this size, so let’s go get our bigger boat back in our village.” We climbed into their little boat and crossed the lake, or rather flood plain, to their village on the far side.
The boat was a bit cramped for thirteen people and fairly close to the water but I think we could have made it just fine. As it was, they took us to their other boat which they bragged could hold ten tons of rice and would make us feel very safe!
We came across flooded fields and down a channel that had been a canal into the boat people’s home village. I think this segment of the trip esspecially was quite an experience for Ruth and the boys who haven’t done much traveling in the countryside before. We were so close to Prey Veng town but it was like stepping back in time a hundred years.
The boat they thought would be acceptable to foreigners was…large. I’d venture three times the size of the boat we crossed the lake on. There was plenty of room to stretch out and move about freely. It seemed a bit extravagant but with two seniors and the family I think it was worth it.
The village also had the number one racing boat in the province which will be traveling to Phnom Penh next month to compete in the boat races during the annual Water Festival. The Prey Veng prelimary races occured last weekend, with racing boats from around the province racing to see which would then travel to the capital for the national races.
There were three “boat people”, a younger couple and an old aunt. The aunt told me that she had been born in Phnom Penh in the Olympic market area but was forced to leave the city and live in the countryside under the Khmer Rogue. She had been one of the lucky ones situatied near the river where fish could be found in abudance suplementing the otherwise dismal diet. In 1979, she decided to remain there in that part of rural Prey Veng where there was some stability instead of returning to Phnom Penh to try and reclaim her old home. She regretted that but it was the safer course of action. During that time there were strict guidelines put in place by the Vietnamese as to who was permitted to live in the capital. Vast squatter settlements spring up around the city, filled with Cambodians who wanted to enter the capital but were forbidden.
We had a chance to walk around the village while they prepared the boat then set off for Pea Reaing. Because of the wider berth of the vessel, I thought that they were following channels along the west bank of the river until they could cross into the river proper. Angkearhdei village is situated on the east bank of the river. After the first hour when we continued on through unfamiliar terrain, I stopped them and tried to verify where we were going. It ended up being a fifteen minute discussion where we learned that… Well…. We said we wanted to go to Angkearhdei Village in Prey Pnoh Commune in Pea Reaing District. Because of that, they said they thought we wanted to go to the Pea Reaing District center. According to them, we should have just said Angkearhdei Village. Yeah, different cultures. It was about this point that the trip stopped being fun as we turned around and traveled for about another two and a half hours.
We eventually arrived at the school around eleven thirty which was around the time we had planned to be leaving the school. We had phoned ahead several times and asked them to arrange lunch for us.
Then I waded to shore and began walking through rice paddy to the school. The boatpeople waded to shore and snatched a small boat which they used to ferry the others to shore. We had a good long walk across the village to the school director’s house where we had lunch. It was a delightful country meal of lots and lots of fish and rice. The also had a nice fish sauce dip and a plate of vegetables.
The Yordys introduced themselves to a group of village children and played with them a bit. They were so cute.
While the family wandered around the village, Dara and I with some input from the Yordys discussed business with the school director. There was some confusion which took a good while to clear up. In the end, we traveled to the school building for the signing of a memorandum of understanding. It was surprising informal but next week I have to travel back to iron out some more of the details of assistance.
That done, the group made a not so quite bathroom stop at the only functioning bathroom in the village then we headed back to the boat. It was four thirty in the afternoon when we finally arrived at the boat, far from our goal at heading back at eleven in the morning. It happens…a lot here. Schedules never seem to work out here. It reminds me of a passage from Homage to Catalonia by George Orwell.
“The Spaniards are good at many things, but not at making war. All foreigners alike are appalled by their inefficiency, above all their maddening unpunctuality. The one Spanish word that no foreigner can avoid learning is manana–’tomorrow’ (literally, ‘the morning’). Whenever it is conceivably possible, the business of today is put off until manana. This is so notorious that even the Spaniards themselves make jokes about it. In Spain nothing, from a meal to a battle, ever happens at the appointed time. As a general rule things happen too late, but just occasionally–just so that you shan’t even be able to depend on their happening late–they happen too early. A train which is due to leave at eight will normally leave at any time between nine and ten, but perhaps once a week, thanks to some private whim of the engine-driver, it leaves at half past seven. Such things can be a little trying. In theory I rather admire the Spaniards for not sharing our Northern time-neurosis; but unfortunately I share it myself.”
The journey back was a stunning one as a rainstorm swept across the province behind us while there was a glorious sunset before us. Unfortunately, the office camera was as always not working properly so I wasn’t able to attempt to capture it. The rainstorm eventually caught and swept over us. Then we arrived back, sunburnt and dehydrated, in Prey Veng. The return trip took an hour and ten minutes, which is what the trip that morning should have taken. The boatpeople asked for an extra five dollars because of the detour and I gave it to them. We lost several hours and that was frustrating but I don’t think it would be healthy to punish or even blame them solely for that. After getting their phone number for a future trip, I went to pick up my bike from the market and then got a nice cold coconut. It was so amazingly refreshing after a day of drinking so little. I was having dinner with the Yordys, Wiederkehrs, and Dara so I headed home to change from my muddy soaked clothing and get a quick shower. I had taken two umbrellas on the trip to ward off the sun and rain. I had hung them on my bike’s handlebars and on the way back they got tangled in the spokes of my front bike wheel in a way that no umbrella ever should or possibly ever has.
Permalink
« Previous entries Next Page » Next Page »
